文物里的华服故事 | 万国衣冠(上)

文物里的华服故事 | 万国衣冠(上)

在西安大雁塔广场,有人按照节愍太子墓出土女俑造像复原唐朝服装。节愍太子李重俊命运多舛,失宠后企图兵变却被反杀,后被睿宗平反陪葬定陵。其墓中的陶俑和壁画珍贵,展现了盛唐早中期过渡阶段的服饰特征,如半翻髻、襇色裙等;还出现裹头内人形象,呈现当时女性风尚喜好。李晦墓出土壁画中舞女形象活跃,其醒目的襇色裙是唐流行款。刘冰冰教授为大家讲解襇色裙的发展,襇色裙从南北朝后期出现,唐前期宫廷流行,盛唐渐势微。步辇图中也有襇色裙的身影,大唐服饰将迈向多元融合时代。

In Xi'an's Dayan Pagoda Square, people are dressing up in Tang Dynasty clothing based on female figurines unearthed from the tomb of Prince Jiemin. Prince Jieminof Tang Dynasty, named Li Chongjun, had a tragic fate. After losing favor, he attempted to launch a coup but was killed. Later, he was rehabilitated and was allowed to be buried as a companion in the Dingling Mausoleum of Emperor Zhongzong of Tang. The tomb’s terracotta figurines and murals are precious, showing the transitional period from the early to the mid-Tang Dynasty clothing, such as half-turned bun and pleated skirts. The depiction of women in the murals reflects the fashionable trends of the time. Professor Liu Bingbing explains the development of the pleated skirts, which first appeared in the late Northern and Southern Dynasties, became popular in the early Tang Dynasty, and gradually faded during the heyday of the Tang Dynasty. The painting buniantu also features this style. Tang clothing marked the beginning of an era of greater multiculturalintegration.

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